DULWICH to CAMBERWELL (DENMARK HILL & KING’S COLLEGE HOSPITAL)

Calton Avenue

ESTATE GOVERNORS HOUSES

Dekker Road, Desenfans Road and Druce Road date from
the earlier 20th century. They were built to allow the replacement of
insanitary cottages in Garden Row, and provide new homes for poorer residents. In Dekker Road are small cottages and maisonettes on two levels that are set at low rentals. A plaque at the Court Lane end of the road commemorates their construction in 1904 to the designs of the arch. CH.E.BARRY

ST.BARNABAS CHURCH

Until the building and consecration of this church, the villagers had to attend services at the COLLEGE OF GOD’S GIFT and, before, at ST GILES, CLERKENWELL, parish of which DULWICH was part.

In 1992 a fire destroyed the original church, replaced by the church you admire now, the first to feature a glass spire.

Alongside Townley Rd.

ALLEYN’S SCHOOL


On East Dulwich Grove

JAMES ALLEN’S GIRLS’ SCH.

Art Deco

Alongside GREEN DALE

Alleys, Dales, Bridges

The railway bridges build within DE were designed by CHARLES BARRY.

The railway companies paid generously for extending their lines across the DULWICH ESTATE.

CRESTS in the bulustrade of the Railway Bridge  

Coat of Arms of the London, Brighton and the South Coast Railway Company

—The arms of London - Argent a cross Gules in the first quarter a sword in pale point upwards of the last.
—The arms of Brighton - Argent, two dolphins naiant sable, a bordure azure charged with six martlets Or.
—The arms of the Cinque Ports  - Per pale gules and azure, three lions passant guardant dimidiated and conjoined to the hulks of as many ancient ships, all in pale Or.
—The arms of Portsmouth - Azure a Crescent ensigned by an Estoile of eight points Or.

Crest with initials of ALLEYN COLLEGE, and year of construction.

Coat of Arms of DULWICH COLLEGE ESTATE

 

IAN VISITS explains all this much better:  

You are now in SOUTH CAMBERWELL

CAMBERWELL?. That relates to CYMRY. The Welsh were here before…

The name may derive from the Old English Cumberwell or Comberwell, meaning 'Well of the Britons', referring to remaining Celtic inhabitants of an area dominated by Anglo-Saxons.

Historically in Britain, the words were not restricted to modern Wales or to the Welsh but were used to refer to anything that Anglo-Saxons associated with Britons, including other non-Germanic territories in Britain (e.g. Cornwall) and places in Anglo-Saxon territory associated with Britons (e.g. Walworth in County Durham and Walton in West Yorkshire).

An alternative theory suggests the name may mean 'Cripple Well', and that the settlement developed as a hamlet where people from the City of London were expelled when they had a contagious disease like leprosy, for treatment by the church and the clean, healing waters from the wells. Springs and wells are known to have existed on the southern slope of Denmark Hill, especially around Grove Park.

GREEN DALE, DOG KENNEL HILL WOOD

It is true that Surrey hounds had their kennels on Dog Kennel Hill. Were those PRINCE GEORGE’s (of DENMARK) kennels?. The kennels were demolished in 1908 (Site: 37 Albrighton Rd.?). But…
The name first came from the Canel family of Dulwich who appear in a 1431 deed. Well before ED.ALLEYN!.  The Canels (or de Canels) owned a property of six acres called Canelcroft, where the Tessa Jowell Medical Centre is today. By 1597 the name of the lane from Camberwell to Canelcroft and on to Goose Green had changed to Kennalls and with the building of the dog kennels in the 18th century it was an easy transition to Dog Kennel Lane, later Hill.

Site of GAUMONT FILM STUDIOS

Site of CAMBERWELL WORKHOUSE (additional buildings to the workhouse in CAMBERWELL town centre). 

In 1892, work began on an additional workhouse at Constance Road (now St Francis Road) in East Dulwich, just to the north-west of the St Saviour's union infirmary at East Dulwich. The site housed 1,000 inmates, mostly aged and infirm, plus some lunatics. There was also a small block for married couples. The buildings, which were opened in 1895, were designed by Thomas Aldwinckle and the builder was Messrs Higgs. The workhouse location and layout is shown on the 1914 map below, by which time it was officially known as the Constance Road Institution.

Schools and playing fields

Site of BESSEMER’s observatory

He retired here, wealth6 and acclaimed (2 houses, living with daughter and son in law), With the second largest telescope in the world.

Sir Henry Bessemer FRS, engineer, inventor, born 1813, died 1898, lived in CLERKENWELL from 1833.
BESSEMER CONVERTER. Inventor of the steel production process that contributed to the industrial revolution (cheap and without impurities)m ships, railways , bridges, weapons….

Alongside CHAMPION HILL, first Eastwards, then Southwards 

Camberwell Grove Conservation Area

View from here: DAWSON’S HEIGHTS

View of the same building from HORNIMAN  GARDEN 

CHAMPION… Is this French?

The Champion de Crespigny family held land in Camberwell. They were a Norman family who fought in First Crusades under St Louis. Became “hereditary champion”  of Dukes of Brittany and Normandy. 
Claude (Claudius?) Champion De Crespigny (1620 - 1697) 
Huguenot and officer in French army . 1687 Left the chateau de Vierville in France for England after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. 
He became a Colonel in the English army.
Knighted. 
1697 Died. Buried in Marleybone.

His son THOMAS built the family seat,  CHAMPION LODGE, around the corner of DENMARK HILL and LOVE WALK.

1704.His grand-son, SIR CLAUDE, later a Baronet, inherited a huge estate here, with 30 acres of parkland. And, in 1804, the PRINCE REGENT visited the place, so the moved in high circles.

The 4th Baronet, CLAUDE as well, born in 1847,  was the most famous: eccentric, sportsman (steeple chaser; in polo, he competed for the HURLINGHAM CLUB), an adventurer, an adrenaline chaser, militarist (Navy midshipman, Army (King’s Royal Rifle Corps )… 

He, even, once bribed a hangman to allow him to serve as his assist executioner, for a triple hanging!.

He retired at 67 but 13 y. after resting was declared bankrupt, continuing though to lead an adventurous life. He took up hot air ballooning and, 1882, became the first to cross the NORTH SEA.

His 5 sons were named CLAUDE.

One of them, after ETON, joined the LIFE GUARDS. Fought in the BOER WAR, and was recommend for a V.C., which he missed, gaining instead the. Companion of the Distinguished Service Order. He became Aide de Camp of the governor of India.

He killed himself at 37. Had he temporary insanity?. A sporting injury? . He was having an affair with a married woman. Buried in the family crypt, in Malden, Essex, where the family had moved  (to the new CHAMPION LODGE. They had CRESPIGNY LODGE in NORFOLK, as well).

CLAUDE RAOUL, Brigadier General d.1941. In 1918 “he broke the neck of an Hungarian”, according to a press article.

Boundary stones of the DE CRESPIGNY ESTATE

1806

French Protestants: the Huguenots

Not far away, in case you want to make a detour

DOG KENNEL HILL. The road. Shops and eateries

In SAINSBURY’s 

A dog in a kennel, a very literal sculpture to find on Dog Kennel Hill in south London. It's in the local Sainsbury's car park.

Trams in this area: a curiosity

Here a unique four track layout was put in place for LT trams. The gradient is very severe  (1 in 10 at the steepest point) and, for safety reasons, each tram car would use an alternative track to the preceding one so that if there was a runway the chance of an accident would be reduced.

Small detour, Eastwards, Alongside CHAMPION HILL

Alternative route alongside  GROVE LANE or CAMBERWELL GROVE towards CAMBERWELL town centre —ST.GILESCHURCH- and  BURGESS PARK. (See chapter)

GROVE LANE

Tree-lined hillside road with various period styles. Very good C18 & C19 terraces.
Conservation area: Nos 2-14, 18-80, 15-93, 98-120, 101-201
and Karen Court are in a conservation area. Generally quiet road.

SIDNEY GILHRIST THOMAS had lived here as a boy. In 1877 patented a system of eliminat phosphorous, the only chemical that withstood BESSEMER’s process, taking steel production another step forward (THOMAS PROCESS). He died at 35.

CAMBERWELL GROVE

On of South London;s best Georgian streets. Camberwell Grove was originally known as Walnut Tree Grove.(shown on John Rocque’s map of 1745). In 1779 Dr Lettsom built a Villa (Grove Hill) at top of Walnut Tree Grove. It was sold in the 1810 and many Regency and early Victorian houses were built in its grounds. on what is now Camberwell Grove. A faux cottage (No 220) remains from the grounds.  

Still further East…Grove Hill

LETTSOM GARDENS. And site of the original well

Dr.JOHN COACKLEY LETTSOM (Dr.LETTSOM of Grove Hill) was a Quaker physician who became an extremely celebrated man in his days, with his friends from the literally world.

He advocated new methods of treatment, like vaccinations tomlreveb5 smallpox, and he was at the origins the seabathing infirmary at MARGATE. His prescriptions were signed “I.LETTSOM”, which led to this piece of funny verse:

”when any patients call in haste, I physics, bleeds and sweets ‘em, If after that they choose to die…I lets’em”

He became wealthy, dispensó with his money freely, with friends and in the house. But when spendings outstripped earnings he had to sell…

Along CHAMPION HILL, Northwards

KING’S COLLEGE halls of residence 

THE PLATANES

The Platanes, a large mansion built in 1882 and used as a Hall of Residence for the medical students at King's College Hospital, derives its name from the German word for plane tree.
Itwas built in 1882 for George Egmont Bieber, a City merchant and member of the German community that had grown in the Champion Hill area of Camberwell, part of the Dulwich Estate, a fashionable London suburb.
The house was purchased in 1890 by the banker Herman Kleinwort of the German banking family.

Soon after however, the social status of Champion Hill and its environs declined as the open fields were developed with smaller houses for lower-middle-class migrants to the suburbs.
The Kleinwort family moved to Belgravia in 1908; after failing to find a buyer for the Platanes, and having been refused permission by the Dulwich Estate governors to change its use into a hotel or nursing home, Kleinwort donated the property to King's College Hospital in 1910.

 

In 1915it  was requisitioned by the War Office for use as an extension of the Maudsley Military Hospital, the neurological section of the Fourth London General Hospital.

The Maudsley Military Hospital provided accommodation for 400 servicemen and N.C.O.s suffering from war neuroses and shell-shock, while The Platanes was used to house officers.  It had 44 beds.

The building remained in use after the war until 1920.

Four of the blocks at Champion Hill; Beech, Maple, Oak and Rowan, are timber framed buildings built on a reinforced concrete beam foundation and include high-pressure laminate cladding on approximately 10 per cent of the exterior of each block, as part of the overall design.

We have identified some potential fire safety concerns at Maple block that need further investigation to ascertain the level of any risk and identify any remedial works required. These investigations are also necessary at Beech, Oak and Rowan as they have the same construction as Maple block and to ensure this work can be carried out safely, we are moving students and staff to alternative accommodation.



THE HAMLET

1967. Arch. PETER MORET.

An award winning private estate.

RUSKIN PARK HOUSE ESTATE

1937-54. Arch.WATKINS GRAY.

One could imagine HERCULE POIROT emerging from this Art Deco inspired estate.

This is the “real” HP building!

CHARTERHOUSE SQUARE, CLERKENWELL

THE FOX ON THE HILL, A J.D.WETHERSPOON PUB.

Originally “under hill” , the first LITTLE DENMARK HALLS, an entertainment resort, b.1874, were blasted with a land mine during WW2. The landlord and wife were in the basement when the blast happened… CH.DICKENS had known this inn.
And the pub you see now, on this triangle of land,was b. on the site of the VICARAGE (ST.MATTHEW’S), and before that, a PLAGUE PIT.

Definitely, the name evoques hunting meets, with foxhounds (“an unspeakable pursuit of the inedible” according to O.W), that used to take place in NORWOOD-GIPSY HILL

Inside and in the web, a bit of history: PERKINS (brewery.He occupied Prince George’s house, a Wren building)), DR.JOHNSON (friend), CHAMBERLAIN (born here. uncle of Neville), Dr.LETTSOM,  Mrs.FITZHETBERT.

RUSKIN PARK

Opened in 1907 after the local residents campaigned for it. 24 acres of land, designed by the notable park landscaper Lt.Col. JJ SEXBY.

Old Eng. Garden, Duck pond, Bowling Green (but this has been replaced by a garden). In 1910 a furt12 acres were added.

Some houses were demolished, amongst them DANE HOUSE, where in 1842, FELIX MENDELSOHN composed SPRING SON. A SUNDIAL commemorates this fact.

And the entrance porch of one of the demolished houses has been preserved.

Common Toad mural

By ATM street artist, commissioned by FROGLIFE charity

1967. PINK FLOYD

JOHN RUSKIN

The park was given the name of a major champion of Green saves, and a local!.

26 HERNE HILL. He lived with s his parents.

163 DENMARK HILL Lived here from 1843.

30 HERNE HILL. Rented the house from 1852.

Born at 54 Hunter Street, Brunswick Square, BLOOMSBURY

Art critic, scholar, social commentator,  propagandist for social reform. Author, poet.  Designer. Lecturer.

Supporter of a avantgarde.Rebel against 19th c. capitalism. Believer in creative labour, as achiever of humanity. As opposed to drudgery. Work as a fulfilling, enjoyable, activity.

He greatly influenced WILLIAM MORRIS and the ARTS & CRAFT movement.

He championed TURNER’s paintings (He was a friend of Turner and became his executor) and the PRE+RAPHAELITES (His theories influenced the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood).

Ne helped set up the NATIONAL TRUST, the NATIONAL ART COLLECTION FUND, and the SOCIETY for the PROTECTION of ANCIENT BUILDINGS.

Here, he welcomed ROSETTI, BURNE JONES, LORD LEIGHTON, ROBERT BROWNING, ELIZBETH BARRETT, CHARLES KINGSLEY, TENNYSON, CARLYLE, HENRY JAMES…

OCTAVIA HILL came for drawing lessons, but later in life JR gave her intellectual and financial support to begin her pioneering work in HOUSING REFORM.

However, the metropolis was engulfing his rural retreat…

His house had beenin command of 7 acres of healthy grounds:  meadows, kitchen gardens, woods…

“Then, came CRYSTAL PALACE spoiling the view…Londoners, on foot, left the path filth with cigar ashes… “Expoliating roughs came with the railways, roaring at the cows, and tearing down branches of blossom…

AND HE UPPED STICKS FOR THE LAKE DISTRICT!. Died at Brantwood, Cumbria.

 

DENMARK HILL

Denmark Hill is an area and road in Camberwell. It is a sub-section of the western flank of the Norwood Ridge, centred on the long, curved Ruskin Park slope of the ridge. NE slope: GROVE HILL. SE slope: DOG KENNEL HILL. The summit: CHAMPIONS HILL.

The Norwood Ridge is a 10 sq.miles rectangular upland. Beneath its topsoil it is a ridge of London Clay: brick fields, many railway tunnels through.
There are many vestiges of the NORWOOD WOOD (from Brentford to Croydon)

DENMARK HILL, name of the the road A215 here, north of its main foot, Camberwell Green, becomes Camberwell Road and south of Red Post Hill becomes named Herne Hill, another district.

The area and road is said to have acquired its name from Queen Anne's husband, Prince George of Denmark, who hunted there. He married ANNE in 1683, becoming PRINCE CONSORT in 1703. 17 pregnancies, no successor. 
A WREN-designed residence stood facing COLDHARBOUR LANE (DANEVILL/SELBOURNE ROADS now)

Not far away, in case you have time for a little diversion

Champion Park

WI LLIAM BOOTH MEMORIAL TRAINING COLLEGE

William Booth college opened in 1929 in Denmark Hill. The iconic building, designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, is at the forefront of delivering education and training programmes for The Salvation Army's Employees, Officers, Envoys and Cadets from the United Kingdom and further afield.
The 190 ft tower is a prominent landmark, awesome, it can be seen from miles around.

As well, offers courses and resources through SCH. for IN SERVICE TRAINING and DEVELOPMENT, and SCHOOL for FAITH EDUCATION.

Busy campus, with a sense of community. Assembly Hall, Library. The Hub (lounge area for the students).

Accommodation  for single, married, even families.  Nursery and after school club.  Badminton, indoor cricket, gym..

Cadets: 21 month of training. Two residential periods separated by a period of practice  (social services or SA centres).

Officer Training! Biblical studies, Faith and Practice, Reaching people, Understanding people, Communicating with people, SA Distinctives. Validated by Uni. of Gloucestershire, as a Dioloma in Higher Education.

It follows a live of service and ministry.

It was proposed by BRAMWELL BOOTH, son of the founders, as a tribute to his father WILLIAM.

Built on the site of PRINCE GEORGE’s hunting lodge.

THE GEORGE CANNING PH

The pub is named after the Conservative politician George Canning [1770-1827], Foreign Secretary and briefly Prime Minister [he died in office]. He was famous for fighting a duel with his rival Lord Castlereagh in 1809; both survived; Canning's shot missed, but Castlereagh managed to wound Canning in the backside.

The historian Paul Hayes argues that he achieved several diplomatic coups in relations with Spain and Portugal, by helping to guarantee the independence of the American tcolonies of Portugal and Spain. His policies ensured a major trading advantage for British merchants and supported the American Monroe Doctrine.

He was responsible for planning the attack on Copenhagen in September 1807. The British fleet began bombarding Copenhagen until when at 7 pm on 5 September the Danes requested a truce. On 7 September the Danes agreed to hand over their navy (18 ships of the line, 15 frigates and 31 smaller ships) and naval stores

SCULPTURES, depicting sheep being stalked by a wolf.

Contemporary metal art by metal sculptor Leigh Dyer

Windsor Walk

FETAL MEDICINE RESEARCH INSTITUTE

2017.A21 architects. Award winning building, with a clever use of the rear of a Victorian terrace. A dramatic atrium was created on one side. A space formed by swooping curved columns. 

Grove Lane

ORTUS

2013. Built by MAULDSLEY CHARITY. Focus on learning, education, connection.

Aims: to break down stigma, working closely with patients, staff and community.

Events and conference space, healthy café open to the public.

RAILWAY STATION

Built between 1864and 1866. Its design by Charles Henry Driver is in the Italianate style, with an extremely decorative frontage and French pavilion roofs

OVERGROUND, THAMESLINK and SOUTHEASTERN services

DENMARK HILL KING’S COLLEGE CAMPUS

Denmark Hill Campus provides facilities for the Faculty of Life Sciences & Medicine, the Dental Institute, and is the home of the Institute of Psychiatry, Psychology and Neuroscience.

 In the last few years this and the neighbouring areas have undergone an incredible process of regeneration and are now one of the most exciting places in London to live, study and work.

KING’S COLLEGE  and  MAUDSLEY HOSPITALS, and the INSTITUTE OF PSYCHIATRY

 K.C.H

KCH was f.1840, in order to provide clinical experience for students. First, in PORTUGAL ST. Here, since 1913 (ED.VII founding stone, opened by Q.MARY, GV consort).

WW1 requisitioned. 75.000+ soldiers treated here.

A hospital?. Why here?.  Because the healing waters?

Camberwell had… a well. In fact, a few wells and springs existed on the South slope of Denmark Hill, aroun Grove Park.  Water rich in iron a mineral salts had beneficial effects on number of ailments. 
Lepers and cripples of London were expelled towards these areas (ST.GILES, patron saint of cripples, gives name to the local parish church, designed by the grandad  (GEORGE) of  GILES GILBERT SCOTT (the parish church beside CRIPPLEGATE, in London city is…. ST.GILES, by the way).

The area, in the 18th, beginni of the 19th c. was rural, aerated, prosperous. Do not forget the beautiful Georgian terraces of Camberwell Grove and Grove Lane.

DR.LETTSOM, resident here, founded the MEDICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, and established his botanical garden of rare plants (LETTSOM GARDENS).

 

A leading teaching hospital and  world class research centre. Providing healthcare services to the local S.Ldn.population, covering an area with largely deprived communities. 

Specialist referral services for SE England.


First bone marrow transplant.

First world’s blood donor service 

Major  liver  transplant programme,  internationally renowned as well for neuroscience. Cardiology services, blood cancers, foetal medicine, stroke, major trauma.

Cutting edge technologies, ground breaking treatments.

 

Helipad, major trauma department 

Built 2016. Authorisation for landing at night, 2019.

GUTHRIE  WING

1937.Art Deco. Arch. COLCUTT and HAMP.

Intended for international and private patients.

MAUDSLEY HOSPITAL

The first purpose b.psychiatric hospital in England, for treatment and research.

1907. HENRY MAUDSLEY offered £30.000 (later increases to,£40.000)to the LCC to fund a new hospital aiming to find effective treatment, rather than providing confinement and “asylum”.

After the 1915 Act of Parliament, all patients were admitted o. A voluntary basis.

Requisioned during WW1.

In 1923 became again a mental health establishment.

1948. Joined the NHS and was amalgamated with BETHLEHEM R.H., becoming a postgraduate  Special Teaching Hospital.

1999.part of SOU5H LONDON and MAUDSLEY NHS FOUNDATION  TRUST, providing mental health services in hospital and in the community.

It plays an important role nationally and internationally.

Supported by MAUDSLEY VHARITY. 

 

BETHLEHEM R.H.

1247. The Priory of St. Mary of Bethlehem f.

It became an infirmary for the sick and infirm, the travellers,and the insane.

Royal Hospital by design of Henry VIII, after the Dissolution of the priory
1676.ROBERT HOOKE building, the first purposely built to contain insane people.

1733. HOGARTH portraited it in HIS RAKE’S PROGRESS.

1815. Rebuit in ST.GEORGE’S FIELDS.

1845 LUNACY ACT. Emphasis on openness for leisure and work.

1882. Private patients admitted (but people of lower incomes were a priority)

Now, in BECKENHAM

Statue of ROBERT BENTLEY TODD (1809-60)

Physician. Born in Dublin. He became licensed at the Royal College of Surgeons in Ireland, then moved to London, where he practised medicine and lectured.

Joined KC in 1836, as a professor of Physiology and Morbid Anatomy, and was prominent in the opening of King's College Hospital in 1840. in KC he had pushed for a radical reform of medical education and had campaigned for the establishment of a teaching hospital.

Best known for describing the condition postictal TRANSIENT paralysis, after and EPILEPTIC FIT, known as TODD’S PALSY. 

He was the first to recognise the functions of the posterior columns of the spinal cord, and the concept of sensory and motor nerves.

First one to apply M.FARAD’s concepts of the polar forces of electricity and magnetism in the brain, laying the foundation of the understanding of the electrical basis of brain activity, and developed the first  electric theory of EPILEPSY.

. Died in his consulting rooms at 26 Brook Street.

The statue was originally erected in the great hall of the old King's College Hospital, near Lincoln's Inn Fields. and then in 1863, moved to the hospital's great hall in the Strand. When the hospital moved here in 1913 the statue was erected in its current location but, not having been designed for the outdoor life, it is showing the unkind effects of the weather over the last 100-odd years.The statue was originally erected in the great hall of the old King's College Hospital, near Lincoln's Inn Fields. and then in 1863, moved to the hospital's great hall in the Strand. When the hospital moved here in 1913 the statue was erected in its current location but, not having been designed for the outdoor life, it is showing the unkind effects of the weather over the last 100-odd years.

INSTITUTE OF PSYCHIATRY, PSYCHOLOGY and NEUROSCIENCE 

World leader in research, study and practice.

1896. Sir FREDERIC MOTT, eminent neurologist, put forward proposals of university level training courses.

1914. LCC established MAUDSLEY.

1924. MAUDSLEY MEDICAL SCHOOL, officially recognised as part of UNIVERSITY OF LONDON.

1948. MAUDSLEY, f.member of BRITISH POSTGRADUATE MEDICAL FEDER, changing his name to INSTITUTE OF PSYCHIATRY.

1997. IofPSY. becomes a K.’s.C. School.
2014? Renamed IoPPand N, including all brain behavioural science. 

 

Your tour exits KING’S HOSPITAL. Remember, you are in CAMBERWELL

See you next chapter!

Fancy a diversion?. A couple of hundred yards downhill from the hospital…

You are now in CAMBERWELL town centre

Love Walk Café 

A lovely walk or ride to ST.GILES CHURCHYARD (and you are already half way from PECKHAM)

Why not supporting…

MAUDSLEY CHARITY