BRIXTON to BROCKWELL PARK (and, downhill, to HERNE HILL)

https://www.alltrails.com/en-gb/explore/map/the-village-tour-a09e75c?u=m&sh=md5qab%0A1%20&%201B

SALTOUN, RATTRAY

Victorian terraces

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_Saltoun_and_West_Saltoun

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rattray,_Aberdeenshire

THE EFFRA  HALL TAVERN

https://londonpubsgroup.camra.org.uk/viewnode.php?id=92681

https://londonist.com/pubs/pubs/pubs/the-effra

BRIXTON WATER LANE

Water?. The river Effra

https://diamondgeezer.blogspot.com/2016/12/marking-river-effra.html

https://diamondgeezer.blogspot.com/2010_06_01_diamondgeezer_archive.html

 

The etymology is disputed: does EFFRA come from a CELTIC word for torrent?. As the river flowed through the MANOR OF HEATHROW, and the London pronunciation of TH as F…

The name was not applied before the 18th c. (EFFRA FARM). “SHORE”, “BRIXTON CREEK”, “THE WASH” (BRIXTON ROAD was “WASHWAY”.

From Latin EFFRENA, Celtic YFRID, Anglo-Saxon EFREN = bank?. Unlikely

In the NORWOOD area,  2 branches, flowing under HALF MOON LANE towards COLDHARBOUR  LANE, then BRIXTON ROAD, on to KENNINGTON ROAD, then ending on the THAMES near VAUXHALL BRIDGE.

The upper part was often nothing more than a stream, unless there was heavy rainfall, but along Brixton Road and from there on the course was under.

Average (where?): 12 feet wide x 6 ft deep.

Near EFFRA RD. another tributary joins, its source being near BROCKWELL PARK.

CNUT THE GREAT is said to have sailed up the river as far as BRIXTON, around 1016, during the DANISH CONQUEST. 
EI sailed up the EFFRA on a barge Tom visit EDWARD ALLEYN, Lord of the Manor

Mid 1800s it was covered over as a sewer (part othe combined sewer devised by BAZALGETTE). It was already polluted, filled in with domestic waste.

In Victorian times a coffin was discovered floating in the Thames, and was found to have come from a grave from the W.NORWOOD CEM. The grave was undisturbed. It was said that it was too close to the course of the EFFRA (running beneath the cemetery) and the coffin was subsided into the flowing underneath London before reaching Vauxhall.

JOHN RUSKIN did his first sketch showing any artistic merit from the foot of HERNE HILL, where the HALF MOON TAV. is now, showing a bridge. And he described a nearby stretch towards Dulwich as a tadpole haunted ditch!.

 

The raised banks of the OVAL CR.GR. we’re b. with earth excavated during the enclosing of the EFFRA -which showed itself again and was responsible for the flooding of the cr.gr. in the 50s.

 

UPPER NORWOOD RECREATION GROUND. Drain with Effra’s water.

WEST NORWOOD, flooded.  VIRGO FIDELIS CONVENT SCHOOL. Back wall swept away in 1890. Repairs are still visible. Again 1913. 3 hours storm. Flooding.

BOAT HOUSE still stands.

1920s and 30s further floods. The sewer, enlarged, and a deep shaft built.

2007 flooding due to a powerful downpour.

ST.GEORGE’S WHARF, was called EFFRA SITE. A small outlet South of VAUXHALL BRIDGE.

A larger outlet N of the Bridge, in front of SIS building, with a modern nameplate (“RIVER EFFRA”): this is the more recent storm relief channel.

1992. Local campaign to launch the project of UNEARTHING THE EFFRA, by LONDON ARTS GROUP PLATFORM … only a stunt?

“Down the EFFRA”

By folk band THE EFFRAS

BROCKWELL PARK

 

Around 125 acres (50 ha) of ondulating public parkland. S.Imp.Nat. Cons. (ancient oaks and other mature trees, lawn areas set to meadows, series lof lakes): support for birds, bats (pipistrelles, as well), visiting species.

Listed for heritage value: typical 19th c. layout with hedge lines…

Dating back originally to the Middle Ages, and owned by the monastic institution of St Thomas’ Hospital between 1352-1537.
In 1891 the LCC acquired the land and the house, in order to open it up as a public park. The MP who steered the Bill in Parliament was THOMAS LYNN BRISTOWE. He would die of a heart attack , on the steps of the house, at the unveiling. In 1901 a further 43 a. we’re added (N).

The  layout of the estate as it is familiar today as Brockwell Park, dates mainly from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

JJ SEXBY, the Chief Officer of Parks at the London County Council  was instrumental in the adaptation of the Brockwell Estate into Brockwell Park. He was a man of popular horticultural vision. By which I mean he could see how to sensitively re-use an unneeded area for growing edible produce into an ornamental garden for the local population to enjoy.

Described by the English Heritage Register of Historic Parks and Gardens as a “‘formal but exuberant scheme of massed bedding, rose beds and topiary around a central pool” it is as lovely a walled garden today as it was then. Some of the thanks for this must go to 2012 restoration using Lottery funding.

The formal walled garden created in the late nineteenth century included rose beds, flowering shrubs, topiary, massed bedding of herbaceous perennials and annuals. Rustic arbours and pergolas, provided with seating encouraged visitors to linger and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and scented roses.

Although the original topiary no longer forms a part of the scheme, there is an archway through the mature yew hedge. Smaller topiary bushes mark the corners of some of the crazy paving paths and flower borders.

Roses still abound in the walled garden; pink roses, white roses and red roses all add their delicate scent to the warm air. One of the advantages of a walled garden is that the containment allows for the flower’s perfume to be captured for the visitor to enjoy. And the numerous benches encourage one to sit, breathe in the flowers’ aroma and relax.

https://brockwellparkcommunitypartners.org.uk/visit-the-park/

https://plewsgardendesign.co.uk/garden-visits-brockwell-park-walled-garden/

Wildlife trail

https://brockwellparkcommunitypartners.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/brockwell-park-leaflet-wildlife-final.pdf

Events 

https://www.brockwell-live.com

In the 1920s 13 cricket pitches attracted crowds of up to 1.500.

Lambeth Country Show

5 Nov. Fireworks 

Music events

1978. ROCK AGAINST RACISM. 150.000. ELVIS COSTELLO and THE ATTRACTIONS

1979. ASWAD and STIFF LITTLE FINGERS.

1981. TUC benefit gig.

1982. Cannabis Law Reform rally.

1983. Festival of Peacy

1984. GLC Free Festival. KEN LIVINGSTONE.

1990s/2000s. Reggae., Pride, Cannabis, Fierce, Purple in the Park (Gr.Jon, Boy G., Yoko O.), Q.GOLDEN J.

2018. Field Day

 

 

Brockwell Park features after Brixton Water Lane entrance

COMMUNITY GREENHOUSES

Where the community greenhouses are now found were greenhouses and a general propagation area for the estate. A site to grow both ornamental plants for the gardens and to start off tender edible crops that would then be transplanted and grown on in the kitchen garden. The community greenhouses now provide an excellent educational and productive resource, with a ‘show’ greenhouse and raised beds to help with teaching local people how to ‘grow their own’ among other events.

https://www.brockwellgreenhouses.org.uk

TEMPLE

A white ornate folly.It has recently been repaired and now includes facilities for people with disabilities. It will in future serve as a meeting space for local community organisations.

Model Village

Located by the entrance to the Walled Garden, the Model Village comprises the remnants of Brockwell Village designed by Edgar Wilson in 1947. Read more about the history of the Model Village here.



WALLED GARDEN


On the site of the KITCHEN GARDEN of the former estate, which used to produce food for the family and the workforce.

Designed by JJ SEXBY, conserving some original features, to which paths, shelters, planted flower beds and central fountain were added.

An old mulberry tree?

https://www.moruslondinium.org/research/brockwell-park-200-year-mulberry

TURRETT CLOCK

Presented in 1897 by MP for NORWOOD ERNEST TRITTON, in celebration of the GJ of AV, this cast iron structure is not unlike the clock nicknamed LITTLE BIG BEN.

Tritton was involved in encouraging the LCC to purchase in 1903 the remainder of the park.

 

https://hernehillsociety.typepad.com/blog/2012/11/brockwell-park-clock-tower.html

Former CHAPEL

Small chamber with pointed windows. A private chapel where the BLADES whorshipped

BRICKWELL HALL

Perched at the top, along the ridge of the hill.
Built 1811-13 (Georgian, plain Free Grecian style) for JOHN BLADES, London glass manufacturer. This would be his country seat, and the centre piece of his estate.

When. John Blades purchased the estate, he had D. R. Roper (arch. of ST.MARK’S, KENNINGTON) build a new house, the current mansion, Roper also designed the Temple next to the walled garden. J.B. Papworth, an architect who worked with Blades at his Ludgate glassworks, made various amendments to the Hall during the 1820s.

 

 

 

(N)Stone portico, (S)Curved bay. Brick and cast iron verandah

On death of BLADES, in 1829, the Estate passed by marriage to the BLACKBURN family, until 1888.

MP BRISTOWE leads the campaign for the purchase and conversion

https://www.lambeth.gov.uk/better-fairer-lambeth/projects/restoration-brockwell-hall-letting-past-enhance-future

https://www.brixtonbuzz.com/2020/03/brockwell-hall-restoration-project-see-the-plans-for-brockwell-hall-stables-and-coach-house/

 

The listed manor house, and its coach house and stable block, are in poor condition, largely off-limits to the public, and currently used as a cafe, offices, public toilets and park maintenance depot.

This exciting project requires considerable funding to create a venue for exhibitions, community meetings and events, food and drink, weddings and corporate bookings.

 

SERVICE WING, COACH HOUSE & STABLES

Topped with a  Raj style 9weathervane

QUERCUS ROBUR

The enormous oak tree (Quercus robur) near the Hall is one of the Great Trees of London, and is over 600years old. Unfortunately, the elm trees succumbed to Dutch Elm Disease in the 1970s and, like most British elms, had to be felled. On a positive note, there are still some 4000 elm trees (Ulmus) in Greater London, including one overlooking another local Lido at Tooting Bec.

Performance area 

Brockwell Park has provided open air theatre since the 1890′s. Opposite the front entrance to Brockwell Hall is the Performance Area which more recently has staged adaptations of Shakespeare’s The Tempest (in 2010) Mid Summer Night’s Dream (2011/12) and Othello (2012).

And on to HERNE HILL, downhill

However, a few more features can be visited in the park

East of Brockwell  Park

THE BROCKWELL LIDO

https://thelidocafe.co.uk

Opened in 1937. Arch. ROWBOTHAM/SMITHSON. In modern style, Almost identical to the one of VICTORIA PARK. LCC. It replaced an older bathing pond.

Closed in 1990.

Re-opened in 1994.

In 2001, sponsored by EVIAN. Users lobby formed.

In 2003, refurbished as a leisure complex open all year round. FUSION LIFESTYLE won the competition.

In 2005, with a £5.000 Lottery fund, redeveloped, op, in 2007.

2014. Open 7 days. Cold water. Gym, Spa, Fitness studios. No membership required.

Waterpolo played

1030s, the GOLDEN AGE of Lidos, in England

Outdoor swimming pool.

169 of them, built  by local councils. EDMONTON, the first one.

Decline and closure with the popularity of foreign holidays.

Thanks to long running campaigns, many of them reopened.

https://www.heritagefund.org.uk/projects/brockwell-park-lido

https://www.futurelidos.org/the-lido-story

The VENICE LIDO  is a barrier beach, enclosing a lagoon. A flat strip of land along the sea 

https://www.visitlido.it/en/

Western part of the park

Remember the BRIXTON  WINDMILL to  BROCKWELL PARK  direct route: TULSE HILL entrance

PONDS

Here lies the course of an EFFRA tributary, draining surface water into those ponds (those ponds were dug up, originally a series of shallow ponds were found along the tributary) before joining the main river underground, near BRIXTON WATER LANE.


South side of the Park

NORWOOD LODGE

Originally a gatehouse to control access to the estate. After the creation of the public park, staff residence.

I hope you are still enjoying this guide…

Again, thank you to WIKIPEDIA!