Clapham Common was once the waste land of the Manors of Clapham and Battersea. Here the villagers grazed their livestock and gathered brushwood for their fires, while the ponds supplied good drinking water. Rights over the western half were claimed by both the parishes of Clapham and Battersea, and in the 17th century, the parishes contested ownership with fisticuffs and lawsuits. The disputed boundary, running north to south across the Common, is the modern boundary between the Boroughs of Lambeth and Wandsworth.

83 hectares, 220 acres. Converted  to park land following the 1878 METROPOLITAN COMMONS ACT.  Cricket, football and other sports . Holiday funfairs

Painted by TURNER (around 1800), showing that it was still wild, even k

if it had been already drained

Crisscrossed by paths, planted with chestnut trees, London plane  trees and other mature trees.

A gay cruising reputation (Ron Davies MP?)

1889. 

In 2012, a new library was opened in Clapham High Street, and the old building was taken over by a locally formed trust, which has transformed it into an arts centre. The former use is recorded by a Clapham Society green plaque.

Tucked  in the garden outside is a Roman memorial stone, now illegible, which came here via the grounds Cavendish House on South Side, but it had been discovered earlier in the foundations of a building in the Tower of London. “To the spirits of the departed and of Titus Licinius…”

Spectacles, telescopes, photographic lenses

The large drinking fountain is by August von Kreling, cast in 1884 by F Miller of Munich. It depicts a woman giving water to a beggar.

Originally erected by the United Kingdom Temperance and General Provident Society, near their offices (ADELAIDA PLACE) on the northern approach to London Bridge, it was moved here in 1895 when it is said that its weight had begun to crack the bridge approach.

Close to the fountain is a large black poplar behind an iron fence.

Its predecessor was known as Captain Cook's tree although as far as is known he never lived in Clapham.

The UK TOTAL ABSTINENCE LIFE was formed in London, 1840. As the group grew and progressively expanded, it changed its name in 1849. Later, it became the UK PROVIDENT INSTITUTION

Its products were aimed initially to teatotallers

Once called COCK POND, after the tavern opposite, it came into being in the 18th c. as a result of quarrying for soil and gravel to raise the site of the new parish  church (thence, the PIT POND)it was cratered by a V2 in Jan. ‘45. O

A church with an active community and normally open to the public, or often in used.

Open  for worship in 1776, plain, simple…reflecting the calm spirit of those rational and enlightened times. The old church (where ST.PAUL’s stands) existed from the M.A., it had grown in a haphazard sort of way,  I it was in a poor state of repair, and it was too small.

After descussions, an Act of Parliament was obtained to buy land  from the manorial family. A trust was set up, headed by the the speaker of the Commons and JOHN THORNTON, the merchant banker, in a meeting in the PLOUGH INN. The architect chosen was KENTON COUSE, from the office of works (DOWNING STREET façade).

Simple design, 3 doors, galleries, stubby tower, a clock by THAWAITES of CLERKENWELL, a pearl of 4 bells.

A bigger congregation was attracted by JOHN VENN, rector from 1792. New vestries, porch (shelter for those alighting from their carriages) and a big organ.

The seats in the nave were box pews, for which occupants paid rent (thus the church was funded). The poor occupied plain benches in the middle.

Venn introduced the reform of holding communion services only once a month. The few who took com. gathered at the e.e. in front of the beautiful mahogany table of 1776, and still in use each Sunday

The church has changed to reflect changes in approach to worship. During the 19th c. the emphasis shirted away from a long sermon and more  towards a participofnteh congregation in hymn and music.

In 1875 the box pews were reduced in heigh and converted into the present bench pews.

The big three decker pulpit was cut down and moved to the N side, allowing room for a choir.

The new font a the w.e., in a sort of medieval style,  saw the baptism of EM FORSTER ( the first!).

Later in the century there was a move to pull it down and building a new Gothic Revival church, as this one was seen as ugly.

In 1903, the e.e. was reconstructed and enlarged, in a sympathetic way with the plainness of the original, by  BERESFORD PITE. But the richness preferred in Edwardian times was brought in.

During WW2 the windows were destroyed, the Lady Chapel gutted, the main roof nearly collapsed. The congregation sat under the galleries!. The restoration was completed in 1952

The struggle to end the transatlantic slave trade and slavery was achieved by African resistance and economic factors as well as through humanitarian campaigns.

The most prominent abolitionists in Britain, notably Thomas Clarkson and William Wilberforce, were great publicists. Wilberforce (1759-1833) led the British parliamentary campaign to abolish the transatlantic slave trade and slavery.

Opinion in Europe was also changing. Moral, religious and humanitarian arguments found more and more support. A vigorous campaign to achieve abolition began in Britain in 1783 and also developed in North America and the Caribbean, often led by the Black churches. In Britain, Thomas Clarkson (1760-1846) was another prominent campaigner who was principally responsible for collecting evidence against the trade. Clarkson was a founder member of the society for effecting the abolition of the slave trade in 1787.

Read on https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/history-of-slavery/abolition#

A group of prominent men and women met in some houses around CLAPHAM COMMON.  Their two intended goals were the suppression of slavery and the reformation of the manners in society. However, they were not a sect!

Their main hub was the house of HENRY THORNTON, MP and banker, who provided organisation and funding to the group. He had inheritedan immense fortune from his father (RUSSIA trade). Brothers SAMUEL and ROBERT had, as well, houses around the COMMON.

His cousin WILLIAM WILBERFORCE first shared the house with him. Later he moved to another house in the neighbourhood, bought by H.TH., BROOMFIELD (after the death of EDWARD JAMES ELIOTT, MP, friend and brother-in-law of PITT). Another influential member of the grouping CHARLES GRANT (EAST INDIA COMPANY, and who had lived with the other two) lived in GLENELG

The Thornton sold the houses and land for development, but BATTERSEA RISE, in 1907 still was the hallowed shrine of the CLAPHAM SAINTS. There were attempts to save the house, only written  memories rest with us (DOROTHY PYM, EM FORSTER, JAMES STEPHEN).

BATTERSEA HOUSE was a QUEEN ANNE house, owned by 1751  by JOHN AKERMAN (a pioneer in the promotion of diamond-cut glass). Son ISAAC built SISTER HOUSES, of which only GILMORE HOUSE (No.113) survives (with lovely views towards CHELSEA and HAMPSTEAD).

Cousins THORNTON and WILBERFORCE were Evangelical  Christians intimate friends, they were seriously minded and  desired to live more “rationally”  and wanted to do some philanthropy. They were immersed already in the anti-slavery campaign, and had the support of PITT. Fresh forethought was needed though.

SIERRA LEONA COMPANY was founded by them in 1791 to claim the African  colony for FREED SLAVES.

They intended as well to strengthen morals and religion, in convulse times (French Revolution).

A community of high-minded friends, a CHUMMERY was created. They would live together some parts of the year, occupied in debating, studying, praying, planning, and relaxing

You will see the site of those houses when you divert towards the WEST SIDE of the COMMON and WANDSWORTH

When Lord Nelson died he was hailed as Britain’s greatest seafaring hero – a reputation that survives to this day. However, a letter he wrote onboard HMS Victory reveals a different face, showing his vehement opposition to William Wilberforce’s campaign for the abolition of the slave trade. Christer Petley uncovers Nelson’s sympathy with a brutal Jamaican slave-owning elite. Read on: https://www.historyextra.com/period/georgian/lord-nelson-slavery-abolition-william-wilberforce-dark-side/#

1839. The SCHOOL had outgrown building in OLD TOWN. The Lord of the Manor sold this site at a reduced price to MR.BRIWN, who presented it to the parish. 
Used for C. ATHENAEUM meetings, and for musical entertainment.

During WW2, ROSS OPTICAL staff canteen.

By the 1960s, too small, girls and infants moved to VICTORIA RISE site. Closed 1974.

GREEN set THE END OF THE AFFAIR in CLAPHAM (a passioned affair with RC, wife of a peer)

He lived here with his family, who was evacuated when bombings started. GG remained in BLOOMSBURY with lover DOROTHY GLOVER.

Here GG was visited by J.BETJ, EVE.WAU. and other writers and publishers.

Journalist, novelist, screen plays (ALE. KORDA, CAROL REED - THIRD MAN), Ministry of Info., SIS agent. At MI6, under KIM PHILBY. He resigned service in 44 but continued to provide information until the 80s.

1930s block of flats.

Pl.: MARIE KENDALL lived here

Art Deco, with strong horizontal lines.. JJ DE SEGRAIS. Original gates

1700, with later additions 

On, or near the LODGE serving CLAPHAM PLACE

Along the length of the chase used to run the boundary of two gardens, two estates, extending up to the WANDSWORTH ROAD (500 meters), purchased with slave trade wealth: ROBERT BARCLAY’s, the banker, and GEORGE HIBBERT, merchant and planter.

B. 1754 for THOMAS PAGE.

It became the residence of the banker and brewer ROBERT BARCLAY, and of his son CHARLES. His mother was RACHEL GURNEY (ELIZABETH FRY).  Both were prominent anti-slavery campaigners.

Pl.: CHARLES BARRY, lived here 1853-60.

Classical porch, Doric columns, pediment.

Bought in 1900 by the NATIONAL FREE HOME for the DYING.

Converted into flats to raise income.

The TRINITY HOSPICE was f. in 1891. As THE HOSTEL OF GOD (from 1900) It was run by the ORDER OR ST.MARGARET OF EAST GRINSTEAD, from 1895 to 1977, when it was taken  over by the Council. ROYAL since 2015.

This house was built in the garden of CLAPHAM PLACE, the house of DENIS GAUDEN, VICTUALLER to the RN, friend of SP (they exchanged gifts… never before a contract was signed… SP said!). GAUDEN supplied the RN with produce of his own farms. He visited and stayed at the height of the G.PLAGUE.
Later bought by WILLIAM HEWER, S.P’s clerk and friend. Pepys  continued to visit, and was at its turn by J.EVELYN and spent here the last 3 years of his life. He died here in 1703, leaving £5 and the mourning rings to the poor of the village. His nephew built a new CEDARS  house 

WH sold the farms but kept pleasure gardens.

Remains of CLAPHAM PLACE have been found in THE CHASE.

Here, GEORGE HIBBERT created a garden  which rivalled KEW.

Architect JT KNOWLES (1831-1901) lived here

Lions and urns

Bigger house, double por porch. Designed by L’ANSON for himself. 20th infillings and excrescences.

Site of THE WILDERNESS (H.FLITZCROFT). Little London house of HENRY HOARE, the banger

KNOWLES Junior. 1860. The last of the grand houses

6 storey towers, Fr aren’t roofs, cast iron balusters, ivy leaf decorations 

Planned as gateway to PARK TOWN, a huge development to stretch down to the THAMES. Though mostly unbuilt a stretch of i y leaves can be see down CEDARS ROAD

No. 47. AUGENER, publicist

PL.: EDWARD GRIEG

Market gardener, Mr. Wix.

Boundary between CL. and BATTERSEA. See IRON BOUNDARY MARKER

STONELEY was the home of J.HATCHARD, the PICCADILLY bookseller

A remain of NIRTHSIDE, JOHN CARR’s (biscuit manufacturer) villa.

Rests of east wing

Terrace houses b. on grounds

ROGER LEE

During Inter-war period an open air school for children with TB

Residence of the Founder of the China manufacture

Mr.GLADSTONE opening speech of his IRELAND HOME RULE campaign

PL.: JOHN BURNS, MP., tradeunionist, lived here

Pl.: JOHN WALTERS founder of the DAILY UNIVERSAL REGISTER

Pre-Raphaelite chapel: PHILIP WEBB, BURNE-JONES

For ISABELLA GILMORE, W.M’s sister, f.of the Anglican Order of DEACONESES. Some fittings are in the V&A M.

1890. Fully restored in 2006. 2011: granite sets for drainage. Made following the model of the 1861. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY GARDEN, in S.KEn.(the first documented “bandhouse”).

Bandstands are a feature of British way of life, for more than a century., a parks proliferated around industrial, overcrowded districts. A focal point, providing  a piece of decoration and sense of community, of sense of pride, a sense of humanisation in the midst of industry and grime Crowds of up to 10.000 used to gather, in MYATTS FIELDS Thursday nights were very popular. 
At one stage 150 of them used to grace the London parks. The progressive LCC alone ordained the building of around 25 b.s. by 1901. They even hired CARL ARMBRUSTER  (“music have charms to soothe the savage beast” ) as musical adviser, to guarantee a good music quality.

Concerts of three hours, up to 2 times a day.

However, in the squalid East End, the audiences were badly behaved, stones were thrown, people, dressed in rags, would yell… The audiences behaved more decently with time!.

In the 50s the popularity of concerts in parks waned… In the 60s, a revival: PINK FLOYS, FLEETWOOD MAC, DAVID BOWIE, DIRE STRAITS…played here, for free!.

In the 70s, disused, vandalised, even demolished. And revival from the 90s: restored and concerts of all types of music performed.

An inn has stood here since at least 1665.

I owes the name (see in sign!)  to a wind (post) mill that stood nearby. In the parish records there are notes of THOMAS GRENSHAW, miller, and ale house  keeper. Millilling must have been gradually less Important… By 1789 noted as a very genteel and well accustomed house, and many years in the possessi Of MRS. SIMMONDS. And it also became a staging post for coaches. Since 1840 belongs to YOUNG’S BREWERY.

Early 18th c. Vestry meetings took place here, alongside the COCK and the PLOUGH.

In 1815: “pleasant, with dinners dressed to order and excellent ordinaries provided on Sun.”

A rambling building (18th/19th c). A hotel since 1993.

https://www.fishprep.com/water/eagle-pond-clapham-common/

“At the garden we grow everything from squash to salad, right in the centre of Clapham Common on the formerly derelict land on Lambeth Council’s waste storage site”

However, an interesting diversion here would be towards CLAPHAM SOUTH LU STATION and the area around  NIGHTINGALE LANE (see chapter)

Below, two 1,400 foot long tunnels of 16'6" diameter, beneath the tube tunnels. Used as air raid shelters in 1944, they housed the 240 people from the West Indies, who sailed on the Empire Windrush in 1948.

Until 2015 an archive store. Listed Grade II in 1998.

The tube reached here in 1926 originally planned as Nightingale Lane station - entrance building by Charles Holden, more famous for the later, curvy, Arnos Grove.

Octagonal hall with period detailing: detailing: stonework, wooden shop fronts, black fluted tiled walls, iron chandelier echoing the restored exterior London Transport logo.

The former South London Hospital for Women was  founded by Dr Maud Chadburn. It opened in 1916 and closed in 1984 after 68 years of care of women by women. Redeveloped by Tesco (2006), incorporating the fine hospital facade (Sir Edwin Cooper, 1935).

Neo-Georgian, with some original stone window and door cases. Chimneys, the west wing, entry staircase and anachronistic urns are new.

Looking over South Side, Cavendish Parade is called after Henry Cavendish, 18th century scientist. In his house on this site, in 1798, he was the first to measure the earth's density, with remarkable accuracy, using a torsion balance.

Opposite and beyond are terraced houses, built from 1885 on the site of the Clock House Estate, once (1775-95) home of the King's printer, Charles Eyre.

Later, members of the CLAPHAM ATHENEAUM  marvelled at demonstrations conducted in its extensive grounds showing the ability of a new phenomenon, electric light, to illuminate over long distances (1853).

In the streets behind can be seen decorative door cases, stained glass, ceramic porch columns, urns on gables and carved headstones.

Originally called 'Den Haag' (arch. George Scott 1888)  in Arts and Crafts style, stands out in bright red brick, with its projecting octagonal turret, banding of scalloped tiles on the roof and walls, ironwork roof feature and unusual drainpipes. It was originally built for William de Wilde Cater, an army uniform outfitter who later went bankrupt.

One of the four ponds remaining, of eleven. They were formed by gravel extraction. Now it is a fishing pond, where competitions are held.

A small adjacent wetlands area has been added, amongst other recent improvements 

Back to the tour route: Cross over CLAPHAM COMMON SOUTH SIDE

You are following the LBTC SOUTH LONDON VILLAGES route

In the grounds of CLARENCE HOUSE, CLAPHAM PARK west Estate

Stone arch with its Tuscan columns… a BILLIARD ROOM (until 1975 it was a Mission room of a mysterious religious organisation, the PLYMOUTH BRETHREN), hay barn, stables, Bath a Portland stone screen wall, ornamental balustrade. See Venetian window saved from another wing.

EAGLE HOUSE  was one of the original grand 18th c. Mansions on the SOUTH SIDE. City merchants had built country residences in what had become a fashionable area, close to their affairs, in London.

As this is the West wing, the house would have stood across where NARBONNE AVENUE is now.

It was the residence of

BENJAMIN BOND and ELIZABETH HEALEY. Substantial garden, w.lake, spanned with a Chinese style wooden bridge.

WILLIAM SMITH MP

WILLIAM EDGAR, owner of the SWAN & EDGAR DEPARTMENT STORE, REGENT ST., 1844-89.

Structural engineer SINCLAIR JOHNSTON rescued it from dereliction in 1989. Replica eagles are perched on the roof. Originally a pair of bronze ones graced the gateposts.

Arch. BURKE-DOWNING, 1912-13. B. in a Gothic style, In homage to CANON PHILIP GREEN, rector of Clapham, on land he had bought for the purpose.

Rose window. Landmark turret.

BETJEMAN called the interior tall, Bodley-esque, lofty and restrained.

Victorian 

Site of GROVE LODGE, house and extensive grounds, residence owned by GEORGE CHILD.

Crescent shaped terrace, detached villas and coach houses.

In 1920 sold to the Amalgamated Union of the Building Trade, as HQ. Early 1930s the UPOW moved in, from CROMWELL ROAD. The ordinal GROVE LODGE was demolished, and the new building (opened in 1937, in reinforced concrete, brick external walls, arch. CULLIFORD) occupies roughly the same footprint.

A storey was added in 1976. In 1998 the renamed UNION OF COMMUNICATIONS WORKERS sold to METROPOLITAN HOUSING TRUST

A surprising landmark… a reminder of Lambeth's rural past. It stands as the only surviving windmill in a borough that once had 12 windmills. It is also the only remaining windmill in inner London.

Formerly known as Ashby's Mill (by1816 it was leased to John ~)this building tells the story of two mills: a traditional wind-powered mill that operated for 45 years and produced stoneground wholemeal flour. By 1864 the surroundings had be one too built up for the mill to operate efficiently, so that it become a store house.
And in the 20th c… a steam- and after gas-powered mill installed in 1902 to serve the public's desire for 'white flour', until 1934.

In 1957 the LCC bough the land and the buildings for almost £8.000 and opened WINDMILL GARDENS. By the early 60s a bakery, the mill house and the mill cottage, demolished.

By 2002 the MILL itself was in the  EN REGISTER of BUILDINGS AT RISK.  Local residents formed FRIENDS OF W.GDNS, as a campaign group, and looked to have the windmill restored. An HRIT.LOT. FUND grant was awarded in 2010 to the partnership Friends and Lambeth C for the restoration of sails, cap, tower… and for conversion to electricity. In 2011 2.000 people visited it after a celebratory parade.

Now, thanks to the efforts of volunteers, it forms the focus of a multitude of community-based activities. Walking tours, educational programmes for local school children…

In 2014 the wind moved again the sails, for the first time in 50 years!.

The church was designed by E.C. Robins to seat 900 and was consecrated in 1875. Neo-early (13th c.) French Gothic. Kentish ragstone dressed with Bath stone. Tower and pinnacles, octogonal louvred lantern, with only one chimed bell fives for QUEEN. Daughter church of ST.MATTHEW’s.
It closed as an Anglican church in 1976 and is now a New Testament Church of God.

The Pentecostal Mission (TPM), also known as New Testament Church (NTC) in the United States and Universal Pentecostal Church (UPC) in the United Kingdom, is a Pentecostal denomination established in 1923 in Colombo, British Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). Its global headquarters is located in Irumbuliyur, Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India. The organization operates churches in over 75 countries under various names and has more than 2,000 places of worship worldwide. Formerly called the Ceylon Pentecostal Mission (CPM), the denomination has grown to include millions of members

1891

ALTERNATIVE 1: On your way to BRIXTON. Alongside STRATHLEVEN RD, to FERNDALE ROAD

ACRE LANE

ALTERNATIVE 2: to BRIXTON alongside JOSEPHINE AVE. and on to ST.MATTHEW’S CH.

BRIXTON HILL

ALTERNATIVE 3: route direct to BROCKWELL PARK. JOSEPHINE AVE., LEANDER ROAD and the TULSE HILL ESTATE

TULSE HILL

Brixton Hill and Streatham Hill form part of the traditional main London to Brighton road (A23). The road follows the line of a Roman Road, the London to Brighton Way, which diverges from Stane Street near Kennington, and led south from the capital, Londinium, to a port on the south coast.

Lambeth Archives is located in the centre of the borough at a new site on Brixton Hill, overlooking Rush Common; featuring a searchroom and space for hosting exhibitions, meetings and educational events.

Piece of marshy common stretching from the top of Br.Hill.  1806 ACT OF PARLIAMENT: the land was enclosed, retaining its open character notwithstanding it is private property. No building allowed. 
The RIVER EFFRA runs underneath EFFRA RD, towards OVAL and VAUXHALL (A tributary, under JOSEPHINE AVE.)

“Brixton’s Town Hall Parade is home to Electric Brixton, a celebrated London multi-purpose venue with a wealth of history. Housed in an Edwardian building dating back to 1913 that previously hosted The Palladium Picture House cinema, live music venue The Ace and more recently the legendary Fridge nightclub, it fuses together old & new, marrying the historical & original features with cutting-edge technologies”.

THE FRIDGE claimed to have been the first British club to have such innovations as video screens and a chill out lounge, and was at the heart of the 1980s New Romantic movement. After its closure the premises were renamed Electric Brixton.

The Fridge was founded, in 1981, by Andrew Czezowski and Susan Carrington, who had run the Roxy during punk music's heyday in 1977. The Fridge closed on 17 March 2010