With streets full of independent shops, art galleries, bookshops, a good selection of local pubs and cafes, and a park with views, there’s no shortage of things to attract people to the area.

15.000 people live in this district straddling the boundary between LAMB. and STHWK.

”ISLAND GREEN” appears in a ROCQUE map of 1746, a name that  probably reflects the EFFRA and its tributaries.
IRELAND GREEN is another early form (?)

Instead in a couple of 18th. SUN INSURANCE policies appears the spelling HEARNS and HERN HILL.

The Manor of MILKWELL was in existence since 1292, at least. Amur of farms and woodland, until the late 18th. The land was divided in two parishes: LAMBETH  and  CAMBERWELL.

In1783 timber merchant SAMUEL SANDERS bought land from the manor and he began granting leases for large plots to wealthy families (the modern districts of DENMARK HILL and HERNE HILL occupy now that land).

By mid 19th c. large residential estates (with mansions at their centre) lined the road from HERNE HILL JUNCTION to DENM.HILL. The area had become a prosperous suburb for the merchant class.

JOHN RUSKIN grew up here.

HUMPHRY REPTON landscaped the  15 acres grounds of CASINO HOUSE, the most impressive gardens of the area.

1862. With the arrival of the LONDON CHATHAM AND DOVER railway the area was transformed. With the convenient links to VICTORIA  and other stations in Central London, SW London and KENT, the demand for middle class housing grew.

The SUBURBAN VILLAGE AND GENERAL DWELLINGS COMPANY built the terraced streets over the old estates, reserving areas for shopping parades and rebuilding the HALF MOON PH.

Venetian Gothic, polychrome brick. With the associated viaduct (very fine brickwork and very ornamental published the BUILDING NEWS) and bridges.

CAMBERWELL purchased the grounds of CASINO  HOUSE (itself demolished) and laid out the SUNRAY ESTATE. Now an area of special character (in its time, a model,of efficiency and architectural character). In SUNRAY GARDENS some REPTON’s features, as the fish pond, have been preserved.

It occupies the grounds of several Victorian villas

After decades of decline, when the houses were in multi occupancy and left to deteriorate, many properties have been refurbished and reunified£

A 17th c. tavern, here. The current pub dates from 1896. It hosted ac boxing gym. 

12 bedrooms boutique hotel, as well.

From HERNE HILL to DULWICH

1950s social housing, CAMBERWELL  COUNCIL

A magnificent thoroughfare of the 1880s, following the course of an old cart track. “A mile of chestnuts, lilacs and apple trees, among the meadows of DULWICH VALLEY, with cows and buttercups”. JOHN RUSKIN had walked it.

In 1886 the SOUTH LONDON PRESS announced the opening “on the site of the dirty lane leading to the rustic and delightful walk” crossing the FIVEC FIELDS, so dear to cockneys. “It vies with a lovely spot in Devonshire “.

It passed the fields where the BLUECOAT BOYS “disport” at football and cricket.

The red grave gave way to paving stones and tarmac in 1902, by the. CAMBERWELL VESTRY.

And crossed by one of the tributaries of the EFFRA. Around 1903 some areas were still waterlogged, and  ducks were swimming in ponds….

There were 3 farms at the turn of the 19th c.:

-PARSONS. Cow sheds and slaughter houses. Afterwards m, a piggery, and storage for Camberwell watering carts

-HAMMOND’S HALF MOON DAIRY, with retail premises

-THE FARM

Was it a suggestion of Canon CARVER, Master of DULWICH COLLEGE, a wry nod to the rivalry between BURBAGE (THE THEATRE, later THE GLOBE) an ALLEYN (THE ROSE and THE FORTUNE)

The LONDON, BRIGHTON and SOUTH COAST RWY CO. first acquired land and, then, started operating, in 1868). The viaducts were expensive, due to the waterlogged nature of the ground. The bricks were made with on-site clay, the kilns caused some pollution, the NAVVIES worked hard… RUSKIN describes.

Noble pillars of red and white brick. Where 2 arches meet, carved medallion in Portland stone, bearing the arms of DULWICH COLLEGE, and  AC (ALLEYN COLLEGE) monogram.

Ballustrade in carved Portland stone, and carved coping on top.

From LONDON REMEMBERS: “Athletics coach. Born Scipio Arnaud Godolphin Mussabini at 6 Collyer Buildings, Blackheath Hill, Lewisham. He was educated in France and initially worked as a journalist. He changed his first names and became involved with the professional running circuit, where, from his initials, he was nicknamed 'Sam'. Most famously he coached Harold Abrahams. Died near Calais.”

ABRAHAMS was Olympic champion in 1924 in the 100 metres sprint, a feat depicted in the 1981 film Chariots of Fire. SAM was played by Ian Holm in the film

Born in Bedford in 1899, son of a Jewish immigrant from Polish Lithuania. 1936 married D'Oyly Carte Opera Company singer Sybil Evers. During the Nazi regime and war, the couple fostered two Jewish refugees. Died Enfield.

SAM was a pioneering figure in professional and amateur sports, transforming athletics with the use of psychological and scientific methods to boost performance.

B. 1881, one of the oldest. It hosted the track cyc. events of the 1948 OB.

DURING WWs CRYSTAL PALACE had home here. Before the opening of the  OLYMPIC VELOPARK, this was the only  London vel. , after the 1987 demolition of the track at the PADDINGTON RECREATION GR.

Originally, the LONDON COUNTY CYCLING AND ATHLETICS GROUND, an initiative of GEORGE HILLIER, amateur racer, succeeding the CRYSTAL PALACE venue, which was not banked and had a poor surface. Supporters favoured the Paddington track, op.1888.

Hillier was a leading light at C.P, and tried to persuade the owning company  to redesign the track, in order to attract racers and supporters. As the company declined, GH looked for another site, and leased this one from DULWICH COLLEGE TRUST. The new track was built by W.and J PEACOCK, a company sympathetic to cycling. Only members took place in the first race here, 1891.

The original 5ft bankings were later raised. The surface were of red shade, needing repeated rolling. In1893, it was replaced by wooden slats. The racing was fast, but, when wet, crashes were frequent. In 96, concrete.

Many records beaten here.  The CUCA CUP 24h races were most popular at the end of the 19th c. Good Friday meetings. World Championships (1920s, 30s). Attendances of 10.000. Crystal Palace played here, WW1.FA Amateur Cup, 1911. Surrey Senior Cups finals 1906-09. Motorcycle events, prior to WW1. London Welsh Rugby Club played here for 40 y., after WW1.

As a cycling track: Deterioration, closure and relocation to Manchester.

From 2014, LONDON OLYMPIC VELOPARK, main venue.

WW2. A gun battery was set up here.

After the war, the venue as made ready for the NATIONAL CYCLISTS UNION.

As London took up the challenge to organise the 1948 OG, work was needed to bring the track to standards. Stands, approach roads…as well.

Complaints!: No ceremony was celebrated here before the opening of competitions. Photo-finish cameras did not work. Photographers were to allowed flashes.

1952.The professional circus opened. The NCU organised the races.

ANQUETIL, COPPI. ARRIS, SIMPSON… raced here

But an  uncertain future. A campaign was fought to retain the venue, following the disputes between SOUTHWARK COUNCIL  and the DULWICH ESTATE, reluctant to agree a lease long enough was needed to make worthwhile the refurbishment  of grandstand and track.  The DULWICH ESTATE was after the best return for its beneficiaries, but had, as well, to look at its commitments towards the community.

BRADLEY WIGGINS, who started raving here at 12, supported  the campaign, as did VICTORIA PENDLETON, BEN SWIFT, and local residents JO BRAND and JAMESNESBITT

450 m.shallow bowl, steepest banking is 18º (250 m. and 45º are the common standards  in modern Olympic velodromes)

Junior 250 m track.

2016 new  grandstand, by HOPKINS ASSOC. (UCIpresiden cut the ribbon).

Trackcentre used for cyclo-cross races.

Hardstanding for warming up and for other bike act. (Polo, non-conventional, bike-ability).

Floodlights installation.

Now, here, activity is back: schools, people with disabilities, women only, under 8, 40+… plans for new competitions…

Designed by the COLLEGE Surveyor, SIR CHARLES BARRY.

Local people had complained that the prestigious school was not doing enough to promote the education for village boys. D.C set it up in 1842. Like the GIRLS’ SCHOOL, it was taken under the wings of the Col. Foundation in 1857.

In 1887, having grown from its original complement of 60 boys, ALLEYN’S SCHOOL moved to TOWNLEY ROAD, near ST.BARNABAS CH. It became Co-educational in 1975.

This building became the VILLAGE READING SCHOOL. DULWICH HAMLET F.C. was founded at a meeting here, in 1893.

It later became  WORKING MEN’S CLUB, and later the club room of DULWICH HAMLET OLD SCHOLARS ASSOCIATION, sharing with an infants’ playgroup.

In May, the VILLAGE GINGERBREAD FAIR takes place in the old playground 

The apple orchard is designed to provide a tranquil space and nature haven for use by the local community. It has been created by The Dulwich Estate as part of the 2019  400 anniversary celebrations. In the coming year it will be the site of an educational outreach programme run by London Wildlife Trust, who are also recruiting and training volunteers to learn orcharding skills and how to look after the orchard.

Welcome to DULWICH!.              See you next chapter…

HERNE HILL to RUSKIN PARK and on to PECKHAM

Keep enjoying this guide!