In this chapter
THE COLLEGE OF GOD’S GIFT
DULWICH GALLERY
DULWICH VILLAGE
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From DULWICH VILLAGE N and on toCAMBERWELL
Following chapter
From DULWICH VILLAGE S of the PICTURE GALLERY and on to DULWICH COLLEGE towards CRYSTAL PALACE
DULWICH
NORTH DULWICH and DULWICH VILLAGE
NORTH DULWICH sta.
History and places
Here you have a good introductory post
A Village?
You are now 5 miles or so away from CHARING CROSS. And 2 bus stops from BRIXTON, but light years away in every other respect.
An affluent, middle class enclave, cut offf from most of its suburban neighbours by parkland, woods, schools playing fields and golfing fairways.
DULWICH lies at the bottom of a shallow valley bounded by DENMARK, and DOG KENNEL, to the North (sloping down to the Thames) SYDENHAM and ONE TREE HILLS, to the South. Still more to the S. the NORWOOD HILLS, crowned by the remnants of the GREAT NORTH WOOD.
Twee little shops, rural signposts, even a tollgate… it has a somewhat cloying self consciousness about its village status.
The truth is that the district has kept the charm of a bygone rural age. From a village, in the 17th c. to a small town en the two successive centuries, when city traders moved to the area, first, and then with the large increase of pop. with the coming of the railways and the construction of the current network of roads.
DUKWICH is bounded by LORDSHIP ROAD, an ancient road separating the manors of Dulwich and Friern. A barrow stood by the road near COURT LANE.
And to the W. by CROXTED ROAD, probable pilgrim route to CANTERBURY.
In fact, one of the oldest villages in the London area. The earliest reference to it occurs in a SAXON charter dated 967. EDGAR THE PEACEFUL gave the manor to one of his knights, and it passed afterwards to the ABBEY OF BERMONDSEY. After the DISSOLUTION of the monasteries (HENRY VIII) the. CALTON family was granted the ownership. In 1605, EDWARD ALLEYN became the owner.
DILEWY SSHEL. “The meadow where the dill grows. A white flower.
THE CHAPEL AND COLLEGE OF GOD’S GIFT
EDWARD ALLEYN (1566-1626)
The founder of this institution was one of the best actors in Elizabethan theatre (Shakespeare did not agree).
He was the son of a BISHOPSGATE inn-keeper, and was brought in to the theatrical,world by his brother. He started playing female parts.
In 1583 was first mentioned as a player in the EARL OF WORCESTER troupe, where him stayed for a few years. In 1586 he gained another billing in the morality pantomime, THE SEVEN DEADLY SINS.
In 1592 he married JANE WOODWARDE, stepdaughter of impresario PHILIP HENSLOW, owner of the ROSE. A happy marriage (here, in the college archives, are kept the tender letters between the 2) which allowed to have a comfortable live.
He retired from the scene in 1599, returned again in 1601. The outbreak of the PLAGUE caused another interruption in 1603-04. Then a tour with the LORD ADMIRAL’s ana performance before JAMES I.
Finally retired in 1612.
The association with HENSLOWE, a pawnbroker and dyer, as well, was close and rewarding. He was illiterate but a shrewd businessman, and an opportunist. His surviving account books give a fascinating insight into the theatre in the days of W.SHK.
In 1594 E.A. became the owner of a BAITING HOUSE, in the OARIS. GARDEN (BANKSIDE), which he would sell to HENSLOWE in 1610. In 1596 he had added to his funds by disposing of an estate in SUSSEX in 1596 for £3.000.
In 1599 he built the FORTUNE THEATRE, in GOLDEN LANE, the site of which was to remain in the hands of the COLLEGE until, when the land was sold to the LCC.
E.A. and P.H. jointly purchased the office of MASTER OF THE KING’S BEARS, BULLS and MASTIFFS, a very valuable office, which gave the holder license to scour the country for suitable animals for sport which would delight kings and subjects (not all owners would part with their animals willingly, and a number of altercations are recorded). Anyway, he was becoming a very,very wealthy man…
He continued to live near the CLINK, and look after his theatrical interests (and not only those: what about his bear-baiting, or bull-baiting… ones, what about his whorehouses?).
In 1610 he was elected church warden of the LIBERTY OF THE CLINK, succeeding P.H.
In 1605 he bought the MANOR OF DULWICH for the sum of £5.000, from SIR FRANCIS CALTON. This is the most significant event… DULWICH comes to prominence!
Without a heir, he founded in 1613 a charitable institution for 6 men and 6 women and for the education of 12 poor children. In 1619 it received the name of CHAPEL AND COLLEGE OF GOD’S GIFT. He would manage the institution and pay for its costs until his death, and he left the bulk of his estate to support it, afterwards.
Around this time EDWARD and JANE sold their property in SOUTHWARK and moved to DULWICH permanently to the old moated Manor House, HALL PLACE (which had been the residence of the Prior of BERMONDSEY) which had been hitherto thei summer residence. They entertained frequently here.
In 1613 ALLEYN contracted the Westminster builder JOHN BENSON. The plans were based on a concept inspired in the GERONTOCOMIUM of AMSTERDAM. There is a talk of INIGO JONES, E.A.’s friend, having been the architect. He was cerpresent at the foundation ceremonies in 1619.
On the founding of his “hospital” he sought good advice and studied the operation of similar institutions, such as WINCHESTER, CHARTERHOUSE, and WHITGIFT.
The foundation received LETTERS PATTENT in 1619, and was bound by strict statutes. Specially hampering were the rules concerning the appointment of the MASTER. Being childless and wishing his name to be perpetuated he ordered that they (and the wardens) must bear the name of ALLEYN (but not all ALLEYNS were suitable and the standards deteriorated, which led to a a Charity Commission enquiry and consequently to the reorganisation of the institution, in 1857, through the DULWICH COLLEGE ART)
The almspeople (6 brothers and 6 sisters) and the schoolchildren (12 scholars) had to come from the 3 London parishes with which ALLEYN had connections -ST.BOTOLPH, (birthplace) ST.GILES MIDDLESEX (site of the Fortune Theatre), ST.SAVIOUR (his residence and businesses)- and from ST.GILES, CAMBERWELL, of which DULWICH was part, even if it did not become a parish on its own right until late in the 19th c.
The present almspeople (HERE)continue to be drawn from these parishes.
The school has grown into one of Britain’s leading PUBLIC SCHOOLS, moving into new premises on DULWICH COMMON, South of the village in 1870.
In ALLEYN’s life the foundation was run smoothly, on Twelfth Night 1621 the poor scholars performed a play before the founder and guests. A happy contented man.However, later that year the FORTUNE burned down.
E.A. continued to perform duties for the Crown. In 1623 he was in SOUTHAMPTON with I.J. to arrange shows and pageants to welcome the Infanta from Castile , as a bride for PRINCE CHARLES (future Ch.II). A fruitless mission as the infanta never came (But gave name to an inn an to a whole district!).
After the death of JOAN (buried in the CHAPEL) ALLEYN married the daughter of JOHN DONNE, DEAN OF ST.PAUL’s Cathedral. CONSTANCE DONNE was only 20. A happy marriage, if short, as E.A. would die in 1626 after falling ill following a visit to YORKSHIRE, to see a newly purchased property.
ALLEYN and SHAKESPEARE
ARTWORK
{Carved on the front of the plinth:}
Edward Alleyn, 1566 -1626
{On a plaque attached to the west end of the plinth:}
This statue by Louise Simson was erected by the Dulwich Society by public subscription with contribution from Edward Alleyn’s Foundation, the Dulwich Estate, on behalf of its beneficiaries to commemorate the fourth centenary of Edward Alleyn’s purchase of the Manor of Dulwich in October 1605.
{On a plaque attached to the east end of the plinth:}
Nature, that fram’d us of four elements warring within our breasts for regiment, doth teach us all to have aspiring minds.
- Christopher Marlowe
This sculpture depicts a scene on a stage, in which Alleyn is acting with a young boy (executing a 'low five', possibly?). The Dulwich Society informs that Alleyn's legs were modelled on Roger Federer's. Another page at the Dulwich Society has a description by the sculptor herself of how the sculpture was created. Here we learnt that the breeches are textured with children's finger imprints and that Edward Alleyn's actual ring was used to impress a seal on the sculpted ring on Alleyn's hand.
The buildings
This area was part of the village Green.
The buildings you see have been altered over the years but it is essentially as it was.
From the front gates (surmounted by ALLEYN’s coat of arms):
-CHAPEL
-left wing: the ALMSHOUSE
-right wing: the former SCHOOL (now Estate offices).
THE OLD SCHOOL and THE ALMSHOUSES
The school and the almshouse, now
https://www.dulwich.org.uk/senior-school
https://www.dulwichalmshousecharity.org.uk
WEST: ESTATE OFFICES
The west wing which housed the rooms for the six poor sisters, with the Long Gallery containing the Founders and William Cartwright's collection of paintings (1688) above it, was in a bad state and was extensively repaired in 1821 by George Tappen. The poor sisters were re-housed in a wing of the new Picture Gallery. Atter the reforming of the College in 1857 the west wing was used by the newly founded upper school which moved to the present Dulwich College in 1869. It was then used by boys of the lower school until 1887 when they moved to their new premises in Townley Road and became Alleyn's School. It is now used as offices by the Estates Governors.
EAST: EDWARD ALLEYN HOUSE
The east wing was rebuilt in 1739 and an oriel window was added in 1834, being the request of one of the Fellows who paid for this improvement himself.
In 1866 the wing provided the accommodation for the four Fellows, six poor brethren and twelve poor scholars. It also had a schoolroom which ran the width of the building, and a music room. After 1866 the entire wing became almshouses, and is now known as Edward Alleyn House.
The Hall,Parlour and Master's rooms were situated at the west end of the Chapel wing.
THE CHAPEL
Very little is left of the original fabric of the Chapel, successive generations have altered the exterior and interior as dictated by fashion and numbers. The present Chapel seats five hundred. Of the 1613 building only part of the north wall of the nave and the west wall remain.
The first of a series of disasters occurred in 1638 when the steeple fell down. Archbishop Laud, as Visitor closed down the College for six months so that the salaries and expenses saved could offset some of the cost of the repairs!
In 1641 a "new glass window of divers coloured glass, in the same work and fashion as the east window of St. Martins-in-the-fields and St. Clement
Danes" was installed.
The CIVIL WARS caused agonies in Dulwich. London was solidly behind Parliament but the Church and the universities of Oxford and Cambridge were Royalist. The College therefore supported the King in what was generally a Parliamentary region.
Some of the Fellows left the College to join the Royalist armies and by July 1643 all had gone. In the spring of 1644 Parliament took over the duties as watchdog of College affairs from the Archbishop of Canterbury (Archbishop Laud was beheaded in 1644). The missing Fellows were declared delinquents by Parliament who replaced them with two of their own men, a preacher and a schoolmaster.
Friction occurred between the Master, Thomas Alleyn, the Warden, Ralph Alleyn, and the new men, and things came to a head when they refused to pay them double pay and diet as ordered. As a Royalist institution they must have put themselves at some risk in defying Parliament, who in the event ordered the Serjeant-at-arms to arrest the Master and Warden. Apparently the Master and Warden came quietly, and 'no matter of crime being proved against them' they were immediately released.
Although the Master's running battle with Parliament was marked by a victory for Thomas Alleyn in that both of the Parliamentary appointees left after a year, it would appear that he was not going to take any chances and accordingly he pawned the College plate for safe keeping in 1645, leaving it pledged until the troubles had subsided in 1652. Evidence of these difficult years can be seen by the baptismal register which noted only two baptisms in the Village from 1645-58, it being a Puritan practice to suppress this rite and on occasions cast the fonts from churches.
Desecration
Havoc caused to the Chapel during the Civil War has traditionally been attributed to troops of the New Model Army under Fairfax but this may not be strictly true. It is possible these incidents occurred in the troubled time of 1643/4 and the culprits might well have been either Parliamentary troops from London or elements of the Trained Bands (militia troops formed from apprentices and artisans in London, particularly strong in the City and Southwark).
Twenty years later, Archbishop Sheldon's committee carrying out it's first Visitation following the restoration of the monarchy reported "that by the iniquity of the late tymes their quire and singing was put down and their organ broken into pieces and carried away (some assert it was melted down and made into bullets). The Master, Warden and Fellows and boys forbidden to wear surplices, their Communion table turned end ways East and West and several other disorders now crept in and continued to the time of the visitation.
Whereupon we thought fit to order them to furnish themselves with surplices, which is done. To place the Communion table as it was long ways against the East wall within the raylles of ye Chancell".
The Organ
Vhat was left of the Chapel organ after ne Civil War was salvaged and rebuilt 11668 and this instrument lasted until
759 when the famous organ-maker ieorge England built the present organ nd case. It is a fine example of
England's skill and is thought to be his oldest surviving work. and although it has been restored four times it still retains the unusual feature of colour-reversed keys.
The eighteenth century started badly for the College; in 1703 the porch with the treasury chamber above tumbled to the ground. Nineteen years later however an ambitious restoration took place within the Chapel, the organ was renovated and removed to the west end, the Chapel was repaired and beautified and paved with stone. The Founder's tombstone in the chancel was not wearing well and a carver was employed to cut the arms and inscription on the stone. Almost a century later this inscription too had become illegible and the stone was replaced by the present one of black marble. The old stone was removed only to reappear in 1925 in the skittle alley at the rear of the 'Half Moon Inn' at Herne Hill from whence it was taken by the Governors and set up in the Chane cloisters.
James Hume of Edinburgh who was appointed a Fellow in 1705, presented the unusual marble font, fashioned like a giant seashell in 1729. The font cover, which is of copper, bears an inscription in Greek which reads the same backwards as it does forwards.
Translated it says, 'Wash away sin, not the visage only.
James Hume was also responsible for the tribute in Latin to the Founder which is set over the Chapel door and which ends with an exhortation familiar to Foundation boys and girls 'Go and do thou likewise'!
Raphael!
The chancel was enlarged at the turn of the eighteenth century and a copy of Raphael's 'Transfiguration' was presented in 1796 and was set behind the altar, obscuring much of the light from the east window. The Painting, a copy of one unfinished by Raphael at the time of his death in 1520 is thought to have been painted by one of his assistants. In 1878 it was hung in its present position.
The growing population of the Village made it necessary to increase the seating capacity and in 1823 the south aisle and gallery were constructed. In the same year the oak screen, pulpit and stalls appeared.
A new turret clock to go eight days anc strike the quarters was placed in the north tower in 1818 (the tower had previously been on the south side of the building) and a new porch soon followed. The College gates and wall were removed from their position on the site of the present war memorial and placed where they stand now. The quadrangle in front of the Chapel was lowered in depth by a couple of feet and steps were provided up to the Chapel door.
In the 1880's the cloisters/ were added to the north side of the building and the steeple placed on the tower. In
1911 W. D. Caroe designed the unusual reredos; the two side panels depict the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the central panel depicts the Epiphany. One of the kings is dressed in robes reminiscent of the seventeenth century and there are also two boy attendants in the costume worn by the first scholars of the College. One of the boys is holding a model of the building, the other a corn-flower, the Foundation flower.
The panelling in the nave dates from 1922, the baptistry from 1925. In 1944 a bomb partially destroyed the Picture Gallery and Chaplain's house and damaged the Chapel. Temporary repairs were effected and the Chapel remained open until 1950 when it closed for two years for permanent repairs and for the installation of a new heating system. In 1954 the present east window was
dedicated. The window depicts in the lower left-hand light the figure of St.
Nicholas of Myra (as Santa Claus, schoolboys' favourite saint), in the lower right-hand light Edward Alleyn is seen in prayer with a poor brother and a poor sister in the background, the upper right-hand light is symbolic of Charity, the upper left-hand light of the Faith of the Church. The coats of arms of the Foundation and of the Diocese are seen in the top lights and the centre light is symbolic of the Blessed Trinity.
The most recent glass, on the north. side of the nave shows the instruments of the Passion. The only old glass, dating from the nineteenth century is to be seen in the east wall at floor and gallery levels.
In
1976 the screen was lowered to offer better visibility and the altar brought forward from the wall so that the Celebrant could face the congregation.
Mr.Snograss and Emily Wardle was performed at the “Dulwich Church”, that is presumably here. The coaches of the wedding party rattled back to Mr.Pickwick’s for the wedding breakfast.
DULWICH PICTURE GALLERY
DULWICH’s main claim to fame, apart from the SCHOOL. A building designed by SIR JOHN SOANE, housing a collection based on a selection of paintings destined, in the 18th c., the NATIONAL GALLERY of Poland… The buildings Include a peculiar construction: the MAUSOLEUM where the the 3 considered founders.
The oldest public art gallery of England was opened in 1814.
First, the collection of Edward Alleyn, including his own portrait, probably painted based on his death mask.
The collection was increased with portraits of writers and actors (BURBAGE), thanks to a bequest from the son of the lessee of the FORTUNE, WILLIAM CARTWRIGHT. However, according to HORACE WALPOLE this was only a collection of “hundred mouldy portraits “.
NOEL JOSEPH DESENFANS, from DOUAI, living in London, first as a French language teacher, and becoming the wealthiest art merchant of his age. His original funds were provided by his wife MARGARET MORRIS.
DESENFANS was charged by STANISLAS, King of Poland, with the formation of a collection of paintings. For 5 years DESENFANS and his friend FRANÇOIS BOURGEOIS (a London painter of Swiss origin, art expert, and member of the ROYAL ACADEMY, and a royal landscape painter) negotiated with the King toured Europe to purchase artworks.
However, the king had to abdicated, while Poland disappeared from the maps, in 1795. DESENFANS had only received a fragment of the debt…
He intended and failed to persuade the Tzar and the British government in order to get rid of the collection (he proposed the foundation of a National Gallery in Britain, which had to wait still another 30 years, as this was an age of distress for the public finances)… Meanwhile his collection remained in his residence CHARLOTTE STREET.
When he died the collection passed to his wife and to BOURGEOIS who in his turn bequeathed the collection to DULWICH COLLEGE (thorough the mediation of his friend, actor JOHN KEMBLE). MARGARET, determined to keep the collection intact, renounced to her half, offering £6.000 For the construction of a gallery (cum mausoleum!).
She was adamant that SIR J.S., a friend of the 3, be the architect of the new project, dying shortly before the opening.
By the way, DESENFANS was originally buried at the rear of his residence in FITZROVIA, the mausoleum being provided by J.S.
After the gallery opening, Other important bequests were the LINLEY family of GAINSBOROUGH paintings and the FAIRFAX-MURRAY of British School paintings
Sir J.S. was given a free rein, when he was commissioned the design. Simple and austere, but , inside, an ingenious structure. A sequence of 5 top-lit galleries (3 square, 2 oblong), quasi independent. Spacious and awash with natural light.
BELTON & WATT installed the original steam heating. They were the sons of the famous engineers
Slightly away from the 2 square galleries, the small mausoleum where repose the founders of the gallery is thought to be based in ALEXANDRIAN CATACOMB. It is suffused with the golden light of the coloured glass, a characteristic SOANE’s touch.
The construction ends in the form of a dome…
Other works by sir John SOANE to be seen in London
CITY OF LONDONThe work that gave him fame: the BANK OF ENGLAND building
An architect specialised in funerary monuments?
More about the buildings
1880s.The almshouses for the 6 poor sisters housed here for years, were converted to galleries and offices
1912-15. Additional range of galleries
1937~38. Yet another range (now it houses the lavatories).
War
In 1944 a VI 'Flying bomb' exploded in Gallery Road severely damaging the Gallery, but fortunately the pictures had been sent to Wales for safe keeping at the outbreak of the war. The Estates' Architect, Mr. Austin Vernon, collected as many cornices and pieces ot masonry as were still intact after the bombing and crated them up, carefully marking each piece. In 1946 the present Estates' Architect, Russell Vernon was demobilised and joined his uncle and they together started work on the plans for the rebuilding.
Fortunately, Soane's original drawings for the Gallery were still preserved and proved invaluable for the reconstruction which was under the direction of Arthur Davis and Sir Edward Maufe and the guiding hand of Sir Gerald Kelly, the then President of the Royal Academy. A generous grant from the Pilgrim Trust enabled the building to be completed and it was opened by H.M. Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother in April,
1953.
Theft
In January 1966, the Gallery was the scene of the world's largest art theft when eight masterpieces were stolen, including ' The girl at the window' by Rembrandt, happily they were recovered unharmed.
In January 1981 the Gallery reopened after being redecorated in what are thought to be the original colours and the pictures rehung in the Regency style of hanging.
1990s. Additional facilities
Paintings
The works of Rembrandt, Rubens, Claude, Poussin and Van Dyck are all well represented in the three hundred pictures on exhibition, a further three hundred and fifty pictures are in the Gallery's storerooms.
Art in the streets of South London
This one, in Peckham
Who painted these murals and why? Discover the rich collection of the Dulwich Outdoor Gallery – many artworks are inspired by Old Masters from nearby Dulwich Picture Gallery. Hear about the unique styles of the artists old and new plus recent commissions in and around this vibrant South London community.
Now, more about architecture and design… Remember the dome on top of the mausoleum?
More artworks outdoors…
Mr Pickwick is somewhat infirm now but may still be frequently seen, contemplating the pictures in the Dulwich Gallery, or enjoying a walk about the pleasant neighbourhood...He is known by all the poor people about, who never fail to take their hats off, as he passes, with great respect. The children idolise him, and so indeed does the whole neighbourhood.'
DULWICH PARK. COLLEGE GATE
North from OLD DULWICH COLLEGE: alongside DULWICH VILLAGE
With the improvement of roads in the 18th c. It became possible for merchants and stockbrokers in the City (LONDON), and for civil servants in Whitehall (WESTMINSTER), to live in Dulwich and commute daily to work. The College estate let off building plots to these commuters and they built fine Georgian down the eastern side of the long village street, set back from the road behind elm and chestnut trees and little green verges protected by white posts and chains. Opposite were the village shops and other business premises.
MEMORIAL FOUNTAIN to DR. GEORGE WEBSTER
Erected by the grateful village folk for his service to the community over a period of 60 years. Born in FORGARSHIRE, arrived in DULWICH as a young surgeon in 1815, becoming the assistant of the established practitioner. In 1832, he f. the PROVINCIAL AND SURGICAL MEDIC AL ASSOC., and, later, in 1836, the WEBSTER MEDICAL ASSOC., with the first meeting in the EXETER HALL. precursors of the BRI.MED.ASS. Rest 1977 (Silver Jub) bar DUL.SOC.
5 schools , born within yards of this crossroads. And a murder inquest…
In the BRICKLAYERS ARMS Inn later the FRENCH HORN) Master James ALLEN f. the READING SCHOOL, which became the FREE SCHOOL.
When the GRAMMAR SCHOOL was born in 1842 (the MASTER OF THE ROLLS put some pressure on the Master of GOD’S GIFT), the children of the Free School engrossed the group of the LOWER SCHOOL.
The INFANTS’ SCH. was born in 1865 thanks to public subscription. The following year was the turn of the GIRLS’S CHOOL, supported by the James Allen Foundation. B. next to the Inf.Sch., now is part of DULWICH HAMLET SCH.
The old FRENCH HAMLET was used until 1887 as a NATIONAL SCHOOL, then demolished
In 1802, the inquest for the brutal murder of the DULWICH HERMITE, Samuel Matthews
MILESTONE
5 miles to the TREASURY (WHITEHALL) and the STANDARD (CORNHILL, CITY OF LONDON). “Siste Viator. T.T. 1772). Thomas Treslove, from Dulwich, was Surveyor of the Roads.
PICKWICK ROAD
A GEORGIAN COACHING INN… rebuilt in the 1930s
A replica b.thanks to the ESTATE GOVERNORS. It became a butchers shop. The business was prosperous as in 1791 an additional 20 acres was purchased, for grazing.
Mr. AYEARST, the owner, was obliged to keep a lamp burning during the 6 Winter Months (from Michaelmas to Ladyday) in some conspicuous place outside, after dark.
A fellow shopkeeper a few yards down the HIGH STREET (old name) had to contribute towards the upkeep of the WATCH.
Shopkeepers place Christmas tress above their shops. They meet for social functions and play a cricket match amongst themselves annually.
Village shops
B.1760s-1830s.
Wrought iron canopy. It used to be the butchers shop.
Nos.101, 103 (MARLOWE HOUSE) & 105 (WOODLAWN)
101, b.1760 by NOBLE SPRING.
MARLOWE, b.1759 by Mrs KYDIA NORMANDY.
WOODLAWN, 1759, by MOSES WAITE.
To the right, the additional building was originally a separate house (1794).
Huge country garden.
CHARLES BARRY
No.97 DULWICH VILLAGE
1796. By JOHN ADCOCK. It was a doctor's surgery, for 100 y., from 1851 to the mid 1950s.
Nos.70 to 82 DULWICH VILLAGE
Shop facias boards conserved.
Shops and cottages from 1793. Dairy and bookmaker were amongs the occupants.
End of the row, originally a house, became a saddlery, and with the advent of the car promptly switched to the car hire business.
The cottage with the quaint frame window was a tailor shop, and later on a hairdresser’s saloon. But on this site, in 1795, JOHN HUGUES had b. a blacksmith’s forge, a timber framed building. The adjoining No. 76 was built as well by J.H.
The blacksmith had a side-line business: at the end of his garden he kept some pigs…a thing not enjoyed by neighbours so that in a later lease of another village trader was a specific covenant not to keep pigs!.
When J.H. died in 1793 his widow sublet thecfirge for a time, then it ceased to be a smithy and began a short life as a shoemaker’s. Finally demolished, in 1893, the current building was erected.
No.74, for a time a laundry receiving office.
Village Tuck Shoppe, then successively, private residence, tobacconist, antiques shop.
The florist’s was b.1800 as offices of painter/glazier, then offices of MITCHELL & CO builders, next was a dairy, then a greengrocer’s.
No. 77
The licensee of the Old Greyhound, ISAAC ELLIS, built 2 dwellings between his inn and the baker’s. They were restaured by the DULW.EST. a few years ago. They became shops in about 1820.
THE CROWN & GREYHOUND PH and HOTEL
Built just after the turn of the century to replace 2 older inns, THE CROWN (on this site) and THE GREYHOUND, situated opposite.
It is thought that the CROWN existed for 250 years, in its earliest days being a wooden framed building, and later rebuilt in brick.
However, it used to cater for the village’s agricultural workers, and was owned by the GOODMANS (a number of members of the family are buried in the OLD BURIAL GR.
Thus the most illustrious establishment was the GREYHOUND.
The KING’S HEAD was on the site from 1721. In 1768 thecGREYHOUND was first mentioned. Later on enlarged: ballroom (balls were memorable, plays were staged…) bowling Green, pleasure grounds, where kids were delighted with the bear living in the menagerie, vegetable gardens, meadows (later cricket grounds, where the underarm ball was demonstrated ).
Good food: hunting pudding, mince pies, turtle soup…
The stagecoach (LONDON to SEVENOAKS)business peacked around 1834, when the stables were enlarged to house up to 15 horses. And a skittle alley was added.
It became the centre of the village. Parties on family outings came here from CAMBRRWELL
The DULWICH CLUB met there, and CHARLES DICKENS used to visit it.
BROWNING, TACKERAY, PAXTON as well
RUSKIN conducted parties of working men for sketching lessons, and the outing would finish with tea here…
Meeting place of the fire brigade committee members, shed to Butcher’s Pond.
Decline, change of hands… The humble CROWN bought the old rival in 1895. BASS RATCLIFF demolished the 2 previous buildings and…
THE HOLLIES & THE LAURELS
1767. Hipped tiled mansard roof. Dormers. Central chimney stack.
COX, early manufacturer of cameras. COCKEREL, coal merchant whose son was an early CRYSTAL PALACE player.
COURTMOUNT 57 DULWICH VILLAGE
1825. Best known residen C.B. CORE was a builder, and an artist, who tried for years and years to have his works exhibited at the R.A SUM.EXH.
LONSDALE 58 DULWICH VILLAGE
1797. Girls school, then residence of tea dealer WBSTER
OLD BURIAL GROUND
COMMERCE ROW
Shops & eateries
Parade of shops b. by the COLLEGE in 1860, on the site of the LONG POND (which was filled with soil from the excavations for the SOUTHERN HIGH LEVEL SEWER), in order to cater for the new Victorian housing developments.
MEMORIAL BENCH to LT.MARK EVISON
Welsh Guards. Killed inn ELMAND PROVINCE, AFG., May 2009. “Farewell Great Heart” (HEN.IV Part I)
Site of Lord Haw Haw public speeches (soap box)
DULWICH HAMLET JUNIOR SCHOOL
Them LBTC E-BIKE tour continues on alongside CALTON AVE. See chapter 10
Site of the STOCKS and CAGE
Social housing by the DULWICH ESTATE
COURT LANE
Now, here you have an little extension of your tour, Northwards, alongside DULWICH VILLAGE
ST.BARNABAS HALL
Parish hall of 1910, designed by Ernest G Cole in a Domestic Revival Arts and Crafts style, erected by subscription as a memorial to King Edward VII.
ROSE & WOODBINE COTTAGES.
1827. Designed by the estate surveyor, TAPPEN. The local baker lived here
LYNDENHURST (HOUSE)
Charles CLARKE, wine merchant. Brother RICHARD, biscuit maker in HORSELYDOWN lived across the road.
POND HOUSE
https://www.dulwichsociety.com/the-journal/autumn-2017/on-the-street-where-you-live-pond-mead-and-pond-house-by-ian-mcinnes
NORTH DULWICH RAILWAY STATION
The station was designed in a hybrid classical style by Charles Barry Jr.and built in 1868 by the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway. It is listed Grade II on the National Heritage List for England as is the K6 telephone kiosk inside the portico of the station.[2][3]
https://content.tfl.gov.uk/bus-route-maps/north-dulwich-and-dulwich-village-a4.pdf
https://content.tfl.gov.uk/london-rail-and-tube-services-map.pdf
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